Careyes?!

Discovering the magnetic community of Careyes 

By Ottocina Ryan 

Remember during the pandemic, when so many of us made life-changing moves? Starting businesses, relocating, many from LA to Santa Barbara. Well, my friend Kim took it a step further and traded Southern California for Careyes, Mexico. For years, she spoke highly of the town and even visited 20 times the year prior to moving. I was impressed that she moved to a different country, and intrigued by the community that drew her in. Careyes isn’t one of the well-known Mexican hot spots, yet I knew of a handful of Santa Barbara residents who owned homes there. It was a place that seemed both elusive and magnetic. When I finally visited, everything made sense.

Careyes is a paradox—cosmopolitan yet bohemian, wild yet luxurious. It was founded in 1968 by Italian visionary Gianfranco Brignone, who bought the land from the air when it was nothing but dense jungle. That free-thinking, imaginative spirit still defines the place. 

Unlike Cabo, Tulum and Punta Mita, Careyes hasn’t succumbed to overtourism. Only two percent of the land is currently developed (the most it will ever be developed is seven percent) and much of the land is protected, with about 2,500 acres dedicated to the Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve. You won’t find a golf course or streets lined with shops. Jet skis aren’t allowed. That’s not what you go there for anyway. Careyes is about architecture, nature, and community. “The most important aspect of Careyes is friendship,” shares resident Luisa Rossi over tuna tostadas at Playa Rosa Restaurant & Bar. Kim chimes in that age is irrelevant here, and her social circle spans people in their twenties to people in their seventies. I look around the hot pink beachfront restaurant—tables are filled with multigenerational families and friends, interacting like equals. It’s a community of people bonded by their common interests and passion for a life well lived. 

Villa Solde Occidente

The next morning we visit Casa Mi Ojo, the first home ever built in Careyes in 1975, now inhabited by Gianfranco’s son Giorgio. Standing on his rooftop overlooking the Pacific, he explains, “What’s special here is the lifestyle—it’s Mexico, with its colors and architecture, but also the Mediterranean, this terrace could be in Greece.” Taking a seat on the ledge, straight above the waves crashing on the cliffs, he continues, “Careyes is difficult to describe, that's why the logo has both a question mark and an exclamation point. The best thing to do is to come. The people that are exposed to Careyes, it marks them. Especially the children, they are so happy here—they can run anywhere.” As if on que, my daughter playing with Giorgio’s dog at the opposite end of the terrace squeals with joy. “People think we’re all hippies. There are no hippies here, it’s just simple,” Giorgio says. While it’s clear how people draw that conclusion, Careyes is more akin to a European village. The pace is slow, but for residents it’s perfect. 

Back in Kim’s Jeep, we drive the cobblestone roads, butterflies flitting around the surrounding dense foliage. She points out structures behind gates and palms, “That’s my friend's place, they split time between Ibiza and Monaco. That’s where I do yoga. This week’s resident teacher is joining us for dinner tonight.” When visiting, as it’s not a town built for tourists, you easily get incorporated into the local life. We reach our destination, one of the many villas that are available as vacation rentals. Each property offers breathtaking ocean views and a masterclass in indoor-outdoor living. Grand palapas shade open air living rooms, which allows for natural ventilation—a reflection of the emphasis on sustainability, while terraces made for entertaining reflect the community values. From Casa Parisol with its pale pink walls lined by agave plants and a koi pond, to Sol de Oriente where bedroom doors open straight into the wrap-around pool, each brightly hued home reflects the creativity and worldly influence synonymous with Careyes. Casa La Huerta’s circular archway symbolizes entering a portal. One where the chimes of sound healing are ever present, palo santo sticks are branded, the DJ booth overlooks the pool, and gold Burning Man-inspired sculptures punctuate the patios. A major plus: villas typically come with staff, making the experience carefree. In addition to the villas and primary colored casitas nestled into the hillside, if you prefer hotel lodging, El Careyes Club & Residences offers suites, five infinity pools, and La Duna Restaurant & Bar. 

Careyes

Days in Careyes are spent on Playa Rosa Beach, at the polo fields (the season runs November through May), or immersed in wellness experiences. Nights bring wood-fired pizzas and fresh seafood at lilo Beach Club and villa cocktail parties. One evening, after an authentic Italian dinner at Punto Como restaurant, we wander across the main square to an art opening at The Careyes Foundation, which funds education for local children and turtle conservation. At the exhibit I meet couples with primary residences in Montecito and Toro Canyon. There are almost 50 nationalities and several languages represented in Careyes, yet the crossover in residents and values between the two locales is noticeable.

Las Rosadas

Before making the three hour drive back to the Puerto Vallarta airport, we head just 20 minutes up the coast to Las Rosadas for a couple days, where Careyes’ saturated hues give way to whitewashed villas accented with shells and copious amounts of art. Maria, the manager, welcomes my daughter and I with a kindness and intuitive helpfulness that shapes our stay. Fresh sliced mango and tostadas with guacamole await in the dining room, which I graze on while Maria plays with my daughter. We swim in the infinity pool overlooking the vast deserted beach below, and wander around admiring the whimsical sculptures to my daughter’s content. When it’s time for dinner, the chefs prepare fresh mahi mahi with grilled zucchini on a bed of romesco. We dine looking out on the fuzzy pink sunset reflecting in the pool, before retreating to one of the six bedrooms of the main house. With a gigantic tub, indoor and outdoor showers, and only the sound of the ocean, it’s truly a sanctuary. In addition to the main house, Las Rosadas also has four casitas—two two-bedroom and two three-bedroom—ideal for families.

Las Rosadas

The next morning Maria drives us by Polaris to Las Rosadas Beach, where thoughtful details elevate the day from relaxing to absolutely idyllic: woven mats cover hot sand, shell-weighted doilies protect pitchers of agua de Jamaica, freshly made lunch is brought to our cabana, and there’s a beach casita, saving us a trip back to the main house to nap or shower.

Nearby, a birthday celebration for a Careyes resident is in full swing. The host invites us to join. Despite the fashionable, exclusive vibe, the crowd is kind and welcoming. Conversations flow from European travels to art to music as children splash in the surf without a care in the world. It feels, again, like the Mediterranean. 

Careyes is shaped by its residents, who lead lives as vibrant as the villas that top the verdant cliffs. They live boldly, connect genuinely, and embrace creativity as a way of life. Outsiders may mistake it for a bohemian cult, or the Burning Man set transplanted to the jungle, but it’s deeper than that. It’s a community bound by friendship and a joie de vivre that's difficult to define. It’s a place that feels so distinct and so magnetic, that while I wouldn’t necessarily recommend uprooting your life to move to Careyes…but I wouldn’t blame you if you did.