Oh, Na Na

Husband-wife duo Nik and Ashley bring street-food flavors and home-like community to their restaurant, Na Na Thai

By Eva Grunburg

Photography Silas Fallstich

While Bangkok is a 20+ hour flight from Santa Barbara, the best Thai food I’ve ever had is just a 40-minute drive away. What began as a series of pop-ups at Bar le Côte in Los Olivos, Na Na Thai is now its own permanent outpost tucked away near the 101 in Buellton—and a permanent destination on my list of favorite restaurants. 

When my friend and I arrive—having never been to either Bangkok or Na Na Thai—somehow, it feels like home. We’re greeted by a lively atmosphere of fellow patrons, delicate scarlet lanterns and ruby walls, along with co-owner and general manager Ashley. As we’re seated, I take in the intimate room as a disco ball illuminates our table and the tiny toy cars I notice lining the shelves. The candlelight at our table is a luxe touch in the exuberant restaurant—nice without detracting from its approachability. “Oh na-na, what’s my name?” echoes from the speakers, and I giggle to my friend as I point out the (probably not) coincidental lyrics.

After making sure we’re taken care of, Ashley leaves us to check on other guests, and I overhear a little boy asking her if they have sticky rice. In an interaction that reflects the comfort and zest of the restaurant, Ashley bends down to his level and informs him that the chef soaked the wrong kind of rice the night before. Then, she offers with a smirk, “Do you want to go yell at him with me?” The boy excitedly nods, forgetting the heartbreak of no sticky rice, and trots along with Ashley to the kitchen. 

The culprit, Chef Nik, is Ashley’s husband, co-owner and executive chef of Na Na Thai. Together, the husband-and-wife team brings a family-like atmosphere and authentic Thai street food classics to the restaurant. After living in Bangkok for four years, the Nik and Ashley duo decided to move back to Santa Barbara to be closer to family; they brought with them their two children, their industry expertise, and the name of their Bangkok home address: Sukhimvit Soi 4, also known as Soi Na Na. Although I’ve only been here for a few minutes, I can tell that Na Na Thai wouldn’t be the same without them. 

Though no sticky rice is noted, I’m delighted to see my “Nik’s Spritz” and my boyfriend’s Thai Iced Tea arrive. With bubbly Pet Nat, St. Agrestis Paradiso, and Kina Karo Aperitif, the spritz is citrusy, sparkling, and refreshing—but that doesn’t stop me from stealing a sip of my friend’s Thai Iced Tea. I’m pleasantly surprised by the Thai tea ice cubes in the spiced black tea and coconut milk concoction—this attention to detail makes this classic a must-order. 

Na Na Thai’s menu encourages guests to share—which is perfect when you want to try everything. To start, we order the Gai Tod (fried heirloom chicken with nam jim jeaw, a chili dipping sauce), the Lumpia (fried spring rolls filled with curried kiani preserve wagyu beef and served with chili ginger sauce), and the Moo Ping (grilled Niman Ranch pork collar skewer, also served with nam jim jeaw), all at Ashley’s recommendation. 

Although there are only one to two of each item per order, each provide a substantial experience of flavor and quality. The Gai Tod carries the perfect savory, tender bite of chicken, the Lumpia delivers a delicious, juicy crunch, and the Moo Ping brings the perfect combination of sweet, salty, and saucy flavors. Our soft-spoken server advises us to save the chili-ginger sauce from the Lumpia for later, and I feel like I’m being let in on a family secret.

My favorite Thai dish is yellow curry, and my friend’s is Pad See Ew, so we’re ecstatic when Ashley unpromptedly recommends the Geng Kari Neua, yellow curry with 6 oz MCR ribeye steak, pickled cabbage, and jasmine rice, and the Pad See Ew, wok-fried thick rice noodles with heirloom chicken and broccoli. 

While we’ve had our fair share of these favorites in the past, the dishes that arrive at the table are otherworldly—and not just because of their stunning presentation on blue and white, intricately designed tableware. Each bite of the Geng Kari Neua brings new flavors, all accentuated by the fragrant curry, from the rich ribeye to the crisp carrots, and balanced by a welcome spice (Ashley warned that the pepper icons on the menu aren’t there for decoration!). The Pad See Ew is sweet and flavorful, and I can’t help but try the chicken with the chili-ginger sauce from earlier (which, as promised, complements it perfectly). Served with lime, squeezing the juice creates an entirely new tang—my boyfriend even says it ranks as his top Pad See Ew “maybe ever.”

After offering us a “moment to dabble,” our server brings us dessert: Black Sesame Ice Cream topped with honey and strawberries from Finley Farms. Rich and slightly nutty, we agree that the sweet and fresh toppings bring it to life—until we devour it all, and admit that the ice cream on its own is stellar, too.  

Nik and Ashley brought more than just their favorite recipes back from Thailand—they brought a sense of community that’s tangible in Na Na’s atmosphere and food. Reluctant to leave such a special place, I make a plan—telling myself that next time, I’ll be disciplined enough to bring leftovers to tide me over until my next visit—or just enough for the ride home. It’s one I think I’ll get familiar with.