Saddle Up & Sip

Long known for its wine, Buttonwood Winery’s horseback tours are earning a reputation as one of the most memorable ways to see wine country.

By Lily Dougherty

It was a sunny summer day, the kind of dry Santa Ynez Valley heat that makes the vineyard rows shimmer a little, when I showed up for Buttonwood's Trail Ride. I got there about 30 minutes early to check in, get matched with a horse, and get fitted with safety gear.

There’s something nice about arriving early for something like this. The pace immediately feels different from a normal winery visit. Nobody is rushing you toward a tasting room or trying to get you through a reservation. There are horses being prepared, people getting settled, and that slightly excited feeling you get before doing something you haven't done in a while.

I ended up with a gentle, easygoing horse, which was exactly what I needed since I hadn't been in a saddle in years. Steady, patient, no fuss. Within a few minutes I stopped thinking about my horsemanship and just started looking around.

While we were checking in, I got talking to one of the staff and found out these rides have a real following—people come from all over California to do them, not just locals passing through wine country. The group ahead of us had driven about two hours that morning just to ride. This really says something about the place when people are willing to make a trip out of it.

Once we got moving, I realized pretty quickly that the hour was going to go by faster than I expected. The first few minutes were mostly about getting comfortable and getting a feel for the horse, but after that it became surprisingly easy to settle into the rhythm of the ride. There’s not much you can do on horseback except slow down, which, honestly, felt like part of the appeal.

The ride is a guided hour through the estate vineyard, and my guide Hector made it exceptional. He pointed out the different grape blocks as we went, stopped at a couple of overlooks for photos, and had a good sense of when to talk and when to just let everyone be quiet for a while. We passed a pond covered in lily pads, row after row of vines, and stretches of trail shaded by big old oak trees.

The oaks were probably one of my favorite parts. In the middle of the summer heat, riding into the shade for a few minutes made a noticeable difference. You'd go from bright, open vineyard and dry hills into these cooler, quieter stretches where the horses seemed to slow down on their own.

At one point we rode right past the tasting room, where everyone was gathered outside at picnic tables under the trees, an old truck parked nearby tucked into a garden with butterflies drifting around it. Seeing all of it from horseback instead of from a tasting room patio changes your experience.

It also gave me a funny perspective on the winery itself. From the tasting room, you see the property as a place to stop for wine. From the trail, you get a much better sense of how much land there actually is and how the vineyards fit into the surrounding landscape. You're not just looking at a bottle or a row of vines anymore. You're riding through the whole setting.

Back at the farm, the ride ends with a glass of estate wine waiting for you, plus the option to add lunch if you want to turn it into a full afternoon. The rides run Friday through Sunday, with departures at 11:30 AM, 1:00 PM, and 2:30 PM. It's $150 per rider (less if you're in the Wine Club). And that glass at the end feels well earned. After an hour outside, with the sun, the horses, and the vineyard around you, sitting down with a glass of wine makes a lot more sense than it would if you'd simply driven in for a tasting.

If you’re only in the mood for the wine, the Classic Tasting is $30, and there are red or white flights too. The tasting fee gets waived if you buy three bottles or more, and Wine Club members get 20% off wine across the board.

Here's what's currently pouring:

2023 Sauvignon Blanc Musqué: a single clone bottled unblended so the tropical, aromatic side of Sauvignon Blanc gets to be the whole story instead of a supporting note.

2023 Rosé: apple and strawberry up front, some stone fruit underneath, good acidity holding it together.

2021 Merlot: dark cherry, plum, a little cocoa and spice. Easy to drink but not simple.

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon: black currant and bramble, some warm spice and vanilla from the oak. Solid, structured, doesn't try too hard.

2021 Classic Cuvée: the Bordeaux blend, and the younger version of Buttonwood's flagship Estate Reserve. Worth trying if you want a sense of where that flagship wine comes from.

There are plenty of ways to spend a morning in the Santa Ynez Valley, but this one felt a little different. You get the vineyard, the scenery, the wine, and the novelty of seeing all of it from horseback. Even if you're not an experienced rider, the whole experience feels approachable, especially when you get a calm horse and a guide who knows how to make you comfortable.

Reserve ahead through Buttonwood's website, show up early, and leave room in your afternoon for a tasting after—you'll definitely want one.