Silvers Omakase

Michelin Starred Silvers Omakase is pure gold

By Laura Hupp

Photos by Ryan Mayo

Chef Lennon Silvers Lee’s latest culinary venture is nuzzled deep into the Funk Zone. For many Santa Barbara locals, it is better known as Seven Bar’s old home—an aspect that Chef Lee finds bittersweet. “If it wasn’t me, it’d be someone else. I am very happy to take on my favorite space.” And though the closing of the beloved spot brought an abundance of sadness, the bright side comes in the form of a 14 course sushi soiree at Silvers Omakase. Two-and-a-half years in the making, the execution is nothing short of spectacular. Inside, deep tranquil teal walls with seafoam green cumulus cloud details put you back outdoors, this time in a sage velvet arm chair with a glass of welcome bubbles in hand. The art gracing the area is a moving sculpture featuring 35mm film “Color Rhymes” by Rosa Barba. The theater door hasn’t yet opened and we wait with anticipation for the performance to begin. 

As the final guests arrive, Jaime, drink expert slash maître d’, guides our attention to the currently closed entry. Pulling back the curtain—a thick black wooden door—the stage is revealed. Seats are assigned, though with just 10, there is no such thing as a bad one. While dining alone isn’t always my preferred method, Silvers is the ideal place to do so. The intimacy of the setting makes your table neighbor now your dinner date. Juxtaposing the waiting room, the scene we enter is much lighter, both physically and mentally. Upbeat jazz music welcomes us to our spots. The suspense has transformed into pure excitement as Chef Lee introduces himself and his three man team Nathan, Derek and Jaime. The 14 flavors of the night are outlined in front of us. They waste no time, immediately thinly slicing Kurodai and grating fresh wasabi. 

A glass of Lieu Dit Sauvignon Blanc is poured and our first course is served—with instructions on how many bites to enjoy the dish in. The combination of both sashimi and tartare cuts of this black snapper bask in a wasabi ponzu broth that captures citrus, spice, and truly everything nice. In Japanese culture, Kuradoi is associated with good luck and prosperity. Spoiler: this bite certainly brings both throughout the evening. 

Next on the agenda, Bluefin Zuke with a house shoyu marinade grilled on Japanese charcoal graces our plates. The crispy edge is followed by pure softness. As someone who tries their best to avoid red meat, I haven’t had a grilled steak in over eight years so take what I am about to say with that in mind. The flavor of this tuna, beyond being one of the best things I have ever tasted, reminds me of a classic steak and makes me consider reintroducing it to my diet.

As we make our way down the menu of Inada, Hamachi, Amaebi, and Hotate all in nigiri form with grated wasabi and light soy and shoyu, my new friend next to me states “That one was my favorite” after every single round. And I can’t argue. Each sashimi yellowtail, scallop, and prawn rendition creates a unique sensational taste that makes picking a favorite like picking a favorite child. Plus, Chef Lee leaves no detail unnoticed. If you thought all white rice was just white rice, think again. For the first time ever, Tanada Isehikari rice from Doyuuno farm is being served outside of Japan and it’s at Silvers Omakase. This rice is sweeter and firmer making it the perfect counterpart for sushi. 

Jaime tops off my glass as I palate cleanse for the next portion with freshly sliced ginger. The ninth dish, Saba, comes with a heat warning. As someone with a slight aversion to spice, the prospect of fermented pepper paste accompanying the mackerel seems daunting. This is one case I am happy to admit defeat. The sea salt, lemon, and soy levelers make the kick a more than welcome guest.

The leanest and fattiest parts of the bluefin follow, each proving their spot in the lineup impeccably. The lean Akami has smoky undertones with a black garlic tare while the meaty melt-in-your-mouth Otoro is decadent enough to just need a touch of wasabi and dash of soy. 

Realizing there are only three pieces left provokes an urge to turn back the clock and put myself back in the sage armchair with a glass of champagne. Unfortunately, that cannot happen. Fortunately, the last bites are truly a grand finale. Charcoal grilled Northern Japan Wagyu with an “egregious” (Chef Nathan’s word, not mine) amount of black truffle is placed in front of each guest as we all look with wonder. It’s a two-biter with an almost berry-esque compote flavoring accompanying the wonderfully chewy ribeye loin cut. This dish affirms that I should never bring beef back into my regular fare, because it will absolutely never taste this good. 

Dessert is a surprising two-parter starting with an echinoderm entree. “Uni to us is a dessert. Which is why I like to serve it at the end of the meal.” The more traditional half is a sea buckthorn and raspberry sorbet. Its bright red pink color is what first grabs my attention, but its smooth sweetness is what keeps it. 

Though all good things must come to an end, Chef Lee wants the experience to last until the morning. He sends us off with a black silk scarf-wrapped gift of Sencha Yuzu green tea. As I steep and sip it early the next day, memories of Bluefin Zuke, Hamachi, and Aji dance through my head to smooth upbeat jazz.