Room with a View
Soaking in the best the Mediterranean has to offer at Jumeirah Port Soller
Written by Ottocina Ryan
I think if you condensed California’s best areas onto an island, it would look like Mallorca. The landscape is ripe with lemon and orange groves, traditional Spanish stone houses, sheep grazing beneath almond trees. The 45 minute drive from Palma de Mallorca Airport to Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa winds between the Tramuntana Mountains, towering like Yosemite, ultimately reaching cliffs reminiscent of Big Sur.
Perched above the coastal town of Port Soller, the hotel comes into sight. The property itself is nuanced and modern, so to claim the view is the most beautiful aspect is saying a lot. Entering my junior suite, I walk straight to the balcony, mesmerized. It’s right on the edge and all I can see is ocean, sky and cliffs. I sink into the outdoor couch and watch sailboats and speedboats pass by, the rhythmic ebbs and flows of the waves crashing on the rocks, seagulls flying at eye level. Luckily I don’t have to miss a moment when getting ready for dinner because there’s a glass wall beside the rain shower and soaking tub, and a window in the walk-in closet.
The only thing able to pull me away? A more expansive vantage point, at Sunset Bar. A couple gin and tonics from their endless selection prelude a Peruvian Japanese fusion dinner. The server assures me that Cap Roig, the property’s fine dining and breakfast restaurant, has an even better perspective, as if we’re looking at a parking lot, not an unobstructed panorama of the harbor and ocean with the sunset directly ahead.
Breakfast can’t come soon enough. Minutes after golden light illuminates my room I’m settling into a corner table at Cap Roig. The server pours me orange juice, from local oranges of course, and I order avocado toast. The concierge visits my table, wondering about my plans for the day. From my perch I can see just about every option—the pools, town, hiking, spa, beach. I mention wanting to explore the surrounding mountains and she sends me several trail suggestions via WhatsApp. After breakfast I stop by the concierge desk for directions to the trailhead and she withdraws and iPad and shows me a time-lapse video of the hike, detailing turns to take and gates to pass through. The video is the reason I don’t get lost amongst the olive trees and make it to the stone tower overlooking the azure sea, encountering a family of eight goats (yes, including babies) along the way…and back in time for my facial appointment at Talise Spa.
The 90-minute Samadara Ultimate Age-Defying Facial utilizes Ayurvedic techniques to rejuvenate my complexion, interspersing masks with facial massage. Walking to the relaxation area I glimpse in the mirror and my skin is luminescent. I soak in the spa’s hydropool, I don’t know what the health benefits of the water are, but the majestic view of the mountains definitely does something.
Rejuvenated and glowing, I take the hotel shuttle into Port Soller to wander the sleepy cobblestone streets, popping in shops selling traditional woven bags and textiles. I hop on the trolley running though the main square and the surrounding groves of lemon, orange, and avocado trees. The entire ride smells like citrus blossoms.
I return to Cap Roig for dinner. The seafood salad is everything you could want in a meal overlooking the Mediterranean—fresh squid, shrimp, octopus, and tomatoes enhanced by local spices and olive oil. A true reflection of the bounty of the island.
As the sun sets I climb several flights of stairs to the infinity pool. It looks as if orange dye has been poured into the water. Guests that filled the lounge chairs all afternoon, soaking in the summer heat and lively atmosphere, have dispersed. It’s serene. I swim to the edge and watch the ocean swallow the sun. The only motivation I have to ever leave this view is a reservation on Capri…